The world’s finest wilderness lies beneath the waves

Grand Bahama

Today’s dive was incredible, nose to nose with Caribbean sharks for over an hour.

Majority were female with two that were visibly pregnant.

Michael managed to remove a hook from one female by flipping her over and inducing tonic immobility.

Tonic immobility is a reflex that causes a temporary state of inactivity in an animal – similar to hypnosis. It’s been observed in a variety of different species, including many sharks and rays. Although it can occur naturally, it can be induced in sharks and rays by stimulating the tiny sensory pores (ampullae of Lorenzini) located on the snout.

The conditions today were perfect for capturing some beautiful photos of the sharks.

Herb & Brent

Boarding the Virgin flight to Miami I was concerned about my connection time but as it was the first time I had booked with a travel agent, I thought “they know best”. How wrong I was. I only had 1 hour 30 minutes between flights so I asked the cabin crew to upgrade me to First Class for the last half hour of my flight so I could get off as quick as possible. The Virgin staff were great and obliged.

My gate at Miami International was a 20 minute walk to immigration… easy, I have run a marathon! I sprinted and bashed that out in 4 minutes. Sweating and stressed, how I got through US immigration is a mystery. I must have looked like a poster child for international drug smuggling. Then the baggage carousel; obviously my bag was the last one off but I grab it and run to the check in desk… “Computer says no”.

Deflated and annoyed at being given a flight by STA Travel that even Bolt couldn’t make, I check in to a dodgy motel near Miami airport and put myself on a standby flight at 1pm the next day. I arrive at the motel which I’m sure was used as a location in Breaking Bad. I’m starving it’s midnight UK time so I ask the woman at reception if there is somewhere to eat. She passes me a Domino’s pizza flyer and says it’s that; McDonald’s two blocks away or a sports bar.

So what do I do, eat butt hole in a seeded bun or try the sports bar? Tom’s NFL bar it is. Three blocks later I’m in a bar with more tv screens than women, but it’s nice. The staff are friendly and the locals are already on the tequila shots. Brent is at the bar supping his bottle of beer telling me he’s just passing through on his motorbike; seven beers later after some mildly political conversation he has to leave because, “he’s driving”!

I shuffle up to Herb who said he has been pistol training people at a local shooting range and we chat about his military diving and experiences in Kabul, he’s a very interesting guy. I order a taco, down a couple of local IPAs and I’m ready for bed.

Morning! 4am and jet lag drags me up and to the motel gym. The treadmill has two settings, running to connect your flight fast or a slow stroll. I last about half an hour and then head for breakfast.

Breakfast in a Miami motel is an experience – a machine dispensed three flavours of batter into a plastic cup, you then pour this into a rotating waffle iron. Top with a few options of different coloured fruit gloop. I opt for a banana, the first of many during my day.

Standby –  get there early I think, be really nice to the staff blah blah that might help my case. Three hours later the gate is about to close, I’m by the door and I can see the plane, the lady at the desk tells me there are five people left to board so things are looking up. With three minutes to go passengers slowly make their way down the escalator, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5… and the flight is full.

Now what?? I ask the lady what I should do, stand by for the 5pm flight is her response. I ask if there are any seats or if she can suggest another option:

American Airlines “no Ma’am the 5pm is full”

Me “What are my chances getting on the next flight?”

AA “I can’t say ma’am”

Me “What should I do”

AA “No ma’am”

Me “That was an open question”

AA “I can’t help Ma’am”

Ok before I start raging and get a free night in Miami courtesy of the MPD I call the lovely UK travel agent who put me in this mess. Surely STA Travel will help, they caused this drama plus they deal with students who must miss flights all the time, they have to be more help than this American Airlines representative stuck on repeat.

Oh no no no we are back to.. Computer says no! Thanks For nothing Jeni from STA, you div.

Her solution was… ready for it…

1. Pay myself for another night in the death motel

2. Pay for a flight to Nassau

3. Wait 10 hours in Nassau for a connecting flight to Freeport.

4. Pay again for a return flight back to Miami because you can’t just use the return if you didn’t take the first flight.

I know from being a human being that the Bahamas is really close to Miami so I ask Jeni if she can find out about a boat from Fort Lauderdale..

Jeni “We don’t book boats”

Me “I know but I’m stuck in Miami and the free airport WiFi locks me out every 40 minutes, seeing as your behind a desk in Canterbury do you reckon you can have a look for me”

Jeni “We don’t book boats”

Me: “I know you don’t book boats but I’m stuck her on my own I don’t know what to do”

Jeni “We only book flights not boats”

You can only imagine the words going through my head right now. Now I’m in tears, blubbing in the middle of Miami airport! Stop crying, that’s not going to help you is it.

I know, call Shanthi. She’s good in a crisis! Straight away, Shanthi has Emily from Bahamas ferries on the phone, $140 dollars and I can be on a ferry from Fort Lauderdale tomorrow morning, a taxi can get me there in about an hour. The cut off for the ferry booking is 4pm and the next standby flight is 5:30pm. Book it I say, I would rather waste the money than wait in Miami until Thursday which is when the next confirmed space on a flight according to the unhelpful bint at American Airlines and the lovely “computer says no” from STA travel.

Then just before Shanthi hits send for the payment a guardian angel from global travel calls me, (after me repeatedly calling the 24/7 emergency line throughout the day also asking for help), we have you a confirmed seat on the 5:30 to Freeport as someone missed their connection. Book it I say and start jumping up and down like a lunatic. How I didn’t get stopped by security really is a mystery!

YES YES YES! Good bye American Airlines lady that I want to beat with her gate closed sign, good bye Jeni from STA, you useless keyboard tapping troll.

Changes and dramas add to the adventure of travel and that’s why I love it but this experience made me realise how great my business is and how customer focused my team are. If someone was clearly distressed we wouldn’t stop until they were ok. Not everyone is the same, hey?

My top 5 dive sites of 2016

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Craig and Shona run a great operation at Scuba Addicts. Matt and Thor our guides were really experienced and full of exciting stories of Tiger shark encounters.

I suggest a good 7mm full length wetsuit for South Africa with a hood and gloves, in October the water temp was 21°c but it felt much colder. I wore a Fourth Element Proteus Womens 7mm Semi-Dry Suit from Mikes Dive Store in London.

The launch off the beach in the rib is a real life James Bond experience, Cam is the master at getting out of the white water but hold on tight and bring sea sickness tablets the swell can break even the strongest stomach.

Bring books and things to do, you dive two tank dives early in the morning and then have the rest of the day free. Umkomaas isn’t the most happening of places and it isn’t safe to wonder about alone – even on the beach.

The dive is intense, you start with a negative entry roll through a frenzy of black tips splashing about on the surface. Dropping down to only about 10 meters you can now sit back and watch the show. Get as close to the drum line as you feel comfortable (within reason) but expect to get barged by the odd shark the closer you are.

Although this dive uses baiting techniques, these mimic the natural feeding pattern of the shark as close as possible, and do not induce a feeding frenzy at any stage. We weren’t lucky enough to see Tiger sharks on this dive but they are very common. Aliwal Shoal is a must for the adrenaline junkie or shark fanatic, this dive allows the avid photographer or videographer an excellent opportunity to capture these magnificent creatures in all their splendour in their natural environment.

The only danger on this dive is missing out!

Cathedral is a dive site at the Shoal, we were extremely lucky on this dive. Dropping down to about 17m you can explore a cave surrounded by a crater-like rock formation with Ragged-tooth sharks swimming in and out patrolling their territory.

The rest of the reef onwards is a plateau with the edges dropping five to ten metres at some places. The main attraction at Cathedral is obviously the Ragged-tooth sharks however we got 2 sail fish, black tips and a scorpion fish as a bonus.

The diving here is world class and Im going to go back to do the Sardine run for sure.

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This trip was organised by Aqua-Firma, I can’t speak highly enough of this company. From start to finish Ralph made it so easy for us all. From finding the best places to eat in Zanzibar to organising extra excursions for everyone.

The trip had the highlight of diving with Dr Simon J Pierce and Dr Chris Rohner, both are leading the way in Whale shark research and conservation. We were given presentations in the evenings about tagging, feeding habits and behaviour. Spending ten days with these two was a geek-out dream.

We snorkelled with the Whale sharks in the morning and dived in the afternoon. On two of the days we just dived.

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The dive boats in Mafia are something else, beds to lounge on, matted floor and a huge sail to take us back at sunset.

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Photo credit: Simon Pierce